Shizuoka prefecture currently – and almost consistently – has two soccer (*ahem* football) teams in the first division of the J. League: Shimizu S-Pulse and Jubilo Iwata. This is why the prefecture is often referred to as the “soccer kingdom” and one of the reasons I was elated to be placed in Shimizu two years ago.
As any soccer fan knows, one of the most exciting and competitive games in a season is a league derby. This is a fixture between two teams from the same city or region. The history, tradition and rivalry are so extensive that the excitement on the day is almost tangible.
My first derby game was held in ECOPA Stadium. We had unreserved seats so we went to the stadium early. Or at least we thought we were going to the stadium early. Although it was almost three hours to kickoff, the train was already crowded with supporters decked in their team jerseys. I was a little apprehensive at the sight, imagining chaos at the stadium when even more people arrive.
But that was a foolish thought. When is there ever chaos in Japan? At the station in Fukuroi City, attendants were positioned at the exits giving instructions and guiding offloading passengers to keep lines flowing smoothly and efficiently. Then the walk from the station to the stadium took about twenty minutes along a major road decorated with beautiful art fixtures. (It’s a straight route but, if in doubt, you can just follow the crowd.) Crossing guards were stationed at every junction too to ensure pedestrian safety.
ECOPA Stadium was built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup so it is an impressive sight. However, it was the strong and delicious scent of food that first caught my attention when we arrived at the stadium. Outside, there were many tents and food trucks with vendors selling popular Japanese street food and one tent selling official team gear and merchandise. Karaage (Japanese fried chicken) is my staple treat so I made a beeline for that tent and I also tried sweet potato chips. With cold Kirin beer to complete the set, I was ready to go in and find a seat. (There are food stalls inside the stadium too; the first time I went I didn’t know that so I bought food outside, which is less practical unless you plan to eat outside as well.)
Team introductions right before kickoff were a spectacle! The flags, chants, cheers and announcements created an exhilarating atmosphere and properly set the tone for the intense competition to follow. Soon I was even singing along to some of the chants. What I lacked in lyrics, I made up for in volume and enthusiasm! There was also a halftime show with a pop performance (I’m not sure if he was a famous artist or local sensation) and cheerleader dance routines.
Throughout the game, the atmosphere in the crowd was intense and focused and fans were vocal in their support. I noted and appreciated, though, that there was very little animosity shown to the opposition. Now, I admit that I didn’t understand enough Japanese to know what the comments around me meant, but there certainly was no booing or shouting at opposition players. It was a very wholesome atmosphere.
At the end of the game, everyone cleared their trash, as Japanese fans also did in the FIFA 2018 World Cup in Russia. The move drew attention and accolade around the world. If I were not living in Japan, I too would have been amazed at the careful consideration of the Japanese fans and players alike. But that day in the stadium it felt natural to pick up our garbage, even disrespectful not to. In these little moments I see the power of culture and how easily you can absorb the norms and habits of the society in which you are integrated. I am always grateful for norms like these that are so positive and thoughtful.
I won’t talk about the final score because it was almost irrelevant to my enjoyment of the game (also, Shimizu lost). I’ve since been to three more J. League games in both Iwata and Shimizu home grounds and next season I also want to follow Shimizu to games in Yokohama and Tokyo. Even if you are not an avid soccer fan like I am, if you ever have the opportunity to attend a professional soccer game here, you should seize it! Soccer is a staple of Japanese culture and the games are a wonderful amalgamation of family, friends, food and fun!